Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
